Monday was spent wondering the streets of Leh and sorting out a trip to Pangong Lake for Tuesday morning. The lake borders Tibet and India and is about 150kms from Leh and sits at 14,000 feet. This is an all-day drive to the lake. I have been told it is one of the best lakes to be seen. On my trip to Leh I could not go trekking because I was only here for a few days and almost all the trekking routes are closed due to cold and snow in this area.
Behind the hotel is the Shanti Stupa, its a 30 minute walk but road or up the steep steps in the front, I go up by the road and come down via the steps, very nice views. No one was at the Stupa so I had the place all to myself.
On Tuesday morning I woke to 2 inches of snow on the ground, low clouds, all flights in and out of Leh were cancelled and sadly my trip to Langong was also cancelled due to the travel conditions. Plan B, I would visit the Leh Palace and the Castle of Tsemo.
So off I went to see more of the city, first stop was the Palace, this nine story Leh Palace was the tallest building in the world when it was built in 1553. The modern Potala Palace in Tibet, built in 1645, is modeled after the Leh Palace.
I was able to climb around one side and into one of the doors where I could explore a few rooms before finding the building locked. I walked around the other side and saw the main entrance, but it was closed like many things at this time of year. Further up the hill from the Palace are the earliest royal ruins in Leh, the Tsemo Gompa Castle, this was a 30 minute straight uphill climb, about 500 vertical feet. Best views of Leh by far.
Back in the town I realized I needed a haircut, a shave too since shaving at the hotel was not the easy with water only from a bucket. I stopped at Sonu’s to get a haircut, straight razor shave, and head and face massage, all for 80 rupees. What a deal, $1.81, we both got a good deal.
I was scheduled to leave on Wednesday morning, Tuesday had been cold with traces of snow all day. I checked the weather report and the weather was not getting better. So I expected no planes the next day too.
My flight is at 7am and I’m told to be at the airport no later than 6am. I wake up at 5am I see 1-2 inches of new snow on the ground, and low clouds. I go online and it says my Go Air flight was on time. I scramble to finish packing and help the driver get all the snow off the car. We slip and slid all the way to the airport.
At the airport I go through the first screening process, hand searched. All I have is phone and an email with my ticket information, no paper copy, everyone else has a paper copy and it says on my electronic version I should have a paper copy. I keep showing people my phone and get waived on.
I then go through the next security check point and xray, they make me take out the batteries in my flashlight, batteries need to be separated I’m told. They also spend a lot of time looking at my spare computer battery thinking it’s a printer, I explain it’s just a spare battery. If it was a printer I could have printed out a copy of my ticket. I put everything back together and off to the check-in line. This line is huge and slow because everyone who thinks they are important, which is everyone, rushes to the front and cuts in. Finally my turn and there is this issue about what you can and can’t carry on the plane. Since this is Kashmir with many terrorist threats I have heard that you are not allowed ANY carryon luggage. I’m worried there is not enough protection to keep my laptop from being damaged if I have to check my bag and I start to take important stuff, money, passport, wallet, camera, etc. and fill my pockets. I’m looking pretty lumpy now. I get to the check-in counter and he assures me that I can take my bag because I actually have a computer, I also guess I don’t look too much like a terrorist, I’m clean shaven, new haircut. I ask for a window seat and smile since I’m one of the last to check in and figure I’ll be in seat 38b, a middIe. I get 4A, a window seat for a spectacular flight.
On to the next to the security line. Can I take my computer bag? Sure no problem. Another xray and again I get stopped, they search my first aid kit and take a real close look at the irrigation syringe, then the battery issue again. I have a headlamp, I turn it on, they are OK and I’m sent on my way.
The takeoff is amazing, huge hills dusted with new snow on both side, the town has a very clean look with the snow. This has to be one of the best views from a plane I have ever seen. Due to security and a military base right next to the airport I’m not allowed to take pictures. We take off and circle around going back over Leh, we break through the clouds and back to Delhi.
I arrive in Delhi about an hour later, I start to unlayer my clothing from the cold weather of Leh. But my bag has not arrived, I ask the Go Air attendant and he says your bag was a security threat, all those security checks and you found my bag to be a security threat? I learn very quickly there is one additional layer of security I was never told about. Before getting on the plane you need to personally identify your bag to the bag loaders, any bag not personally identified by the owner is left in Leh. I’m one of about 15 people that did not know this fact. Back to the airport on Thursday to recover my security threat.
I get a taxi back to the house in Delhi for lunch and several needed Kingfisher beers.
I’ve commented several times on the food in India, I’m so spoiled. Even the fast food is pretty good. My friend Hanumant has several relatives coming this summer and the have told me they will teach me how to make Indian food, I’m so excited! I’m now researching how I can make a tandoori oven for my house.
Behind the hotel is the Shanti Stupa, its a 30 minute walk but road or up the steep steps in the front, I go up by the road and come down via the steps, very nice views. No one was at the Stupa so I had the place all to myself.
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| Shanti Stupa |
So off I went to see more of the city, first stop was the Palace, this nine story Leh Palace was the tallest building in the world when it was built in 1553. The modern Potala Palace in Tibet, built in 1645, is modeled after the Leh Palace.
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| Entrance to the Leh Palace |
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| Tsemo Castle |
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| View of the main market from the Castle |
I was scheduled to leave on Wednesday morning, Tuesday had been cold with traces of snow all day. I checked the weather report and the weather was not getting better. So I expected no planes the next day too.
My flight is at 7am and I’m told to be at the airport no later than 6am. I wake up at 5am I see 1-2 inches of new snow on the ground, and low clouds. I go online and it says my Go Air flight was on time. I scramble to finish packing and help the driver get all the snow off the car. We slip and slid all the way to the airport.
At the airport I go through the first screening process, hand searched. All I have is phone and an email with my ticket information, no paper copy, everyone else has a paper copy and it says on my electronic version I should have a paper copy. I keep showing people my phone and get waived on.
I then go through the next security check point and xray, they make me take out the batteries in my flashlight, batteries need to be separated I’m told. They also spend a lot of time looking at my spare computer battery thinking it’s a printer, I explain it’s just a spare battery. If it was a printer I could have printed out a copy of my ticket. I put everything back together and off to the check-in line. This line is huge and slow because everyone who thinks they are important, which is everyone, rushes to the front and cuts in. Finally my turn and there is this issue about what you can and can’t carry on the plane. Since this is Kashmir with many terrorist threats I have heard that you are not allowed ANY carryon luggage. I’m worried there is not enough protection to keep my laptop from being damaged if I have to check my bag and I start to take important stuff, money, passport, wallet, camera, etc. and fill my pockets. I’m looking pretty lumpy now. I get to the check-in counter and he assures me that I can take my bag because I actually have a computer, I also guess I don’t look too much like a terrorist, I’m clean shaven, new haircut. I ask for a window seat and smile since I’m one of the last to check in and figure I’ll be in seat 38b, a middIe. I get 4A, a window seat for a spectacular flight.
On to the next to the security line. Can I take my computer bag? Sure no problem. Another xray and again I get stopped, they search my first aid kit and take a real close look at the irrigation syringe, then the battery issue again. I have a headlamp, I turn it on, they are OK and I’m sent on my way.
The takeoff is amazing, huge hills dusted with new snow on both side, the town has a very clean look with the snow. This has to be one of the best views from a plane I have ever seen. Due to security and a military base right next to the airport I’m not allowed to take pictures. We take off and circle around going back over Leh, we break through the clouds and back to Delhi.
I arrive in Delhi about an hour later, I start to unlayer my clothing from the cold weather of Leh. But my bag has not arrived, I ask the Go Air attendant and he says your bag was a security threat, all those security checks and you found my bag to be a security threat? I learn very quickly there is one additional layer of security I was never told about. Before getting on the plane you need to personally identify your bag to the bag loaders, any bag not personally identified by the owner is left in Leh. I’m one of about 15 people that did not know this fact. Back to the airport on Thursday to recover my security threat.
I get a taxi back to the house in Delhi for lunch and several needed Kingfisher beers.
I’ve commented several times on the food in India, I’m so spoiled. Even the fast food is pretty good. My friend Hanumant has several relatives coming this summer and the have told me they will teach me how to make Indian food, I’m so excited! I’m now researching how I can make a tandoori oven for my house.
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| Fast food Indian food delivered to your door |
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| Cooking in Tandoori oven |
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